Belay Devices for the Begining Rock Climber

There are several different types of belay devices. Some are much more suited for the beginner climber than others are. I hope to help you determine the best belay device that will suit your skill level and needs as a beginner climber.

Listed as follows are the major belay devices used in climbing today.

1. a figure eight
2. an ATC/tubular device
3. a Grigri or similar auto-locking device
4. The reverso by Petzl


A figure eight is a common belay device. It is commonly used for several reasons. the main reason is that a figure eight is the most common (and most practical) rappel device that there is. It can double as a belay device for the same reasons that it is a great rappel device. It puts the rope through such a tight bend, over and through the large end of the figure eight, that there is a very large amount of friction placed upon the rope as it travels through the eight as to slow the rope's progress significantly. This device added to the hip belay with a back-up belayer can, if properly used, stop a climbers fall.

One drawback is that the friction of the rope passing over the metal will damage both the rope and the metal. Letting too much rope through too fast will speed up the process and will either severely damage the rope or cut a sharp edge into the metal which will in turn cut the rope.

An ATC or tubular belay device works similarly to the figure eight. Instead of having the bend of the rope constantly in contact and being binded by the metal of the figure eight, it uses the end of the carabiner (usually 2 carabiners with the gates facing opposite directions) and a small wire or loop of metal to bind the rope. The rope is held in a tube of metal and looped through the carabiners. One drawback of this device is the tight bend that it puts the rope through. If you put a rope through too tight of a bend (bight in climbing terms) it can damage the rope.

A grigri or other semi auto-locking device is commonly used in many climbing gyms. The device will, when a load is suddenly put on the device as would happen when a fall would occur. While this action will put a significant brake on the fall of the climber, it will not stop it without the hip belay of the belayer.

There are two significant drawbacks to using this or similar devices. The first is that it breeds complacency. Using this device the belayer knows that he or she has a 'fudge' factor built into the system. Even the most attentive belayers can let their attention wander when they know that there is an automatic brake between them and the climber. the other problem is tha, while the directions for use are printed on such devices, hooking the up backwards is an easy thing to do. Backwards the device does not work.

The reverso is in many respects similar to the ATC. It requires the use of a carabiner (or two to be safe) to work. The main difference is when it is used for lead climbing. In such a situation the reverso, and similar devices, can be set up in such a way, doubling the rope through the same hole, to act as an automatic brake. In such a situation, the brake can only be let off by taking the load on to another piece of gear. While it is nearly idiot proof, it is complicated to use. It can be used with one or two ropes while keeping them from twisting.

There are other belay devices out there. I do not recommend any of them to the beginner. The Petzl stop is one of them. A good order to learn the techniques of belaying is to 1. use a figure eight. 2. use an ATC or a reverso (if you have an experienced climber with you). and 3. the grigri. After that, discuss your options with your climbing friends and professional sales staff.

A good belay device will save your life. The device, however, is no good without due diligence and appropriate technique. Both skills must be learned before you begin to belay a climber on any sort of climb. Practice and only more practice will get you to the point where you can be trusted to be a belayer for someone.

A good program to build your climbing skills can be found here.

Another good introduction to all aspects of rock climbing can be found here.